Braised Radish Tops

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Nov 21

Written By Mary Margaret Chappell

You may have already read that radish tops taste like arugula or watercress. This is true, to a point. What no one tells you though is that they’re not as straight-out tasty as arugula or watercress. (If they were, we’d have been eating them all along, right?) Radish leaves are furred and a little prickly, plus their flavor is REALLY peppery, so you can’t just throw them straight into a salad. They don’t keep well either; after a couple of days, they wilt to a sad, yellowy mass that’s only good for a compost pile. You gotta use ‘em quick if you’re gonna use ‘em at all.

Thank heavens, I’ve found a way around all these inconveniences with this recipe. It’s based on a spring turnip recipe from Paula Wolfert’s World of Food, where you cook the turnips and their tops together, drain off the cooking liquid, and simmer them with olive oil, garlic, and tomatoes. It seemed like it might work for radish tops. And…Jackpot! The garlic and tomatoes provided a tangy counterpoint to the earthy funkiness of the radish tops. But the real game-changer was the draining step. It took away any unpleasant bitterness radish tops can sometimes have.

This recipe can be used with any type of dark leafy green, but what really sets it apart is its ability to transform uncommon greens (I bet it would even work with nettles!) into something that’s not just edible, but downright appetizing. Most types of tomato products will work, including fresh, so long as they’re juicy enough to provide some cooking liquid. You can also cook the radishes (halved) with the tops for a more substantial dish. And try garnishing the cooked radish tops with feta or goat cheese and lots of ground black pepper.

leaves and tender stems from 2 large bunches of radishes (about 4 cups.), rinsed well
2 tsp. (10 ml.) olive oil
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced
¾ cup (200 g.) strained tomatoes (such as Pomi) or canned crushed tomatoes

Bring the radish tops and ¾ cup of water to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer, covered 15 minutes. Drain the greens in a colander, and return the saucepan to the burner. Increase the heat to medium, and add the olive oil and garlic. Cook the garlic 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the drained greens and the tomatoes. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer 15 to 20 minutes, or until most of the tomato liquid has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper.